During our summer holiday this year, we visited Hope Cove. A lovely little village in south Devon, close to Salcombe. This tiny village, with barely a village shop used to be heavily fishing based. It also at one point in history developed a reputation for plundering wrecked ships, and smuggling.
The reason Hope Cove is such a favourite for beach lovers is the calmness of the waters inside the cove. South Devon is known for some harsh waters and high winds on occasion, but the Cove has a lovely shelter in the form of Bolt Tail. Located to the southwest, it’s a large headland that at one point had some sort of fort located on it.
Starting at the famous lifeboat house, the south west coastal path goes up the side of the hill through a nice wooded area. It is a gentle climb, with lovely views the whole way up. Then when you get out of the woods, for the final accent, you can see why there was a fort built there.
Although it looks imposing, there is an easy path to get up to the top as you can see, and no iron age soldiers shooting arrows at us while we tried to walk up. From this angle you can see the earthworks built by the settlers. The straight earthwork/wall blocking off one side of the settlement (with the other three being cliffs) is known as a promontory fort. Luckily there are nice entrances now so we didnt have to scale the walls.
As there is not much left inside Bolt Tail, and it was horrendously windy at the top, we moved on further along the coast. Its a surprisingly good walk, well signposted, and lovely views all the way around. We picked a nice day, so if it was wet, I would imagine the wind would be scary. Looking back you can see why the place was made as a fort.
Along the way there were many many sheep, making all manner of sounds, sometimes they didn’t even sound like sheep! As my girlfriend said “they sound like a human pretending to be a sheep” which sounded about right. They are crazy animals as well, they were not scared to go right up to the edge of the cliffs. Much braver than we were.
As it was still sunny, and we felt energetic, we continued up the hill. We eventually ended up at Bolberry down. A National Trust park, designed to be nice and flat, lots of paths around the top of the cliff, and easy access for disabled people or those with difficulty up hills. If we were to continue on, we would have passed RAF Bolt Head, an RAF base during WW2. Then right at the south of Salcombe, where the Kingsbridge Estuary hits the sea is Bolt Head. Maybe we will come back that way some day. For now, we wandered back to Hope Cove for a cream tea and a watch of the sunset.